Normally when we write about a new brewery, we try to give some of its back story and tell you about the brewers. Not so with this review. When Granville Brewing Company owners Jay Parsons and Ross Kirk brought us three bottles fresh from their weeks-old operation, they told us they were more interested in people talking about the beer then about them.
So we’re just going to talk about the beer.
The Oppressor // (Hybrid) Imperial Amber // 6.8%abv
This is quite a pretty beer to look at, with a deep ruby brown hue and a huge, rocky head of tight bubbles. That’s somewhat due to this batch’s overcarbonation (a caveat given by the brewer), which combined with the dryness of the beer lends a tingly, thin mouthfeel. The aroma is initially dominated by acid and clove phenols, but this gives way to more caramel notes as the carbonation drives off volatile compounds and the beer warms. The taste is similar, starting with clove and tending towards sweeter caramel and orange notes as it dries on the tongue. This is billed as a hybrid due to its use of American hops, but they’re a little hard to find in this beer past the light orange flavor. Perhaps it needs more hops and a different fermentation temperature (less clove). Overall, this beer is just OK.
The Reaper // Saison // 8.4%abv
This beer looks like orange marmalade with a big, fluffy white head. And it smells like orange marmalade with fresh cracked black pepper on top. And it tastes like orange marmalade with lemon zest, black pepper, and coriander mixed in. This sweetness dries out on the tongue, leaving a tingly, wheaty finish. The alcohol content, a bit high for a saison, is completely hidden. In stark contrast to the amber, this beer is anything but forgettable. If you like juicy, spicy saisons, you have got to try this one.
The Betrayer // Tripel // 9.5%abv
This beer looks exactly like The Reaper with a smaller head (both are well carbonated), perhaps a touch darker. It has a wonderful spicy Noble hop aroma, backed up with the sweet smell of honey. This beer reminds me a lot of Jackie O’s Hocking Tripel; a nice integration of typical fruit and spice tripel flavors with a mild honey flavor. Drink this beer a little warmer — the honey flavor amps up and the light alcohol warmth is comforting on a cold day.
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In summary, Granville Brewing makes good beer. Go buy some (especially the saison). Given the fact that these were labeled “Batch No. 1,” “Batch No. 2,” and “Batch No. 3,” I expect even more from them in the future.
Currently you can find their beers in Granville at Brews Cafe, Broadway Pub, and Snapshots Lounge; in Newark at the Beverage Source; in Blacklick at Blacklick Wine & Spirits; and in Powell at Ale Wine & Spirits. They hope to expand distribution to Columbus in March, but based on their current sales may not be able to meet the demand – they’re only brewing on a 1bbl brewing system at the moment.
