A few months ago, we featured Gordon Biersch and brewmaster Keith Jackson’s take on the various lagers that the brewery and restaurant are known for. Today, we take a look at Mr. Jackson’s Brewer’s Select – his chance to spread his plumage like a beautiful, beer-brewing peacock and create a batch apart from the Gordon Biersch line up.
The Brewer’s Select series gives the brewmaster at each Gordon Biersch location a chance to brew whatever style of beer they want. This year’s Brewer’s Select at the Columbus location is an American-Style Stout – a style far removed from Gordon Biersch’s traditional German brews, but clearly reminiscent of Keith’s craftsmanship.
Mr. Jackson’s stout begins with an aroma of mingling duality. Soft notes of hoppy pine swirl across a layer of crackery malts – much like a pilsner with an added hop strength. Following this introduction, a touch of smoke rises up around the edges, complimenting a growing presence of richly roasted malts that settle in at the bottom of the aroma. Unlike other stouts – where thick and clinging aromas dominate with pure heaviness – this offering features a yin yang of light and dark. Hoppy brightness dances with a snappy char to create an aroma full of roasted richness. A hint of bready sweetness lingers at the back, adding a touch of lager essence before the hops shine through once more, ensuring this beer maintains an ample distance from its German compadres.
On the tongue, the same piney notes arrive first and head to the back of the tongue, creating a pale ale bitterness. As the hops are settling into place, caramel sweetness slides in on top of the pine, darkening into a roasted malt profile as the drink continues. This roasty depth combines well with the bitter notes, reining in the pine strength so that heavier stout qualities end up on top. Each taste brings about further darkness, specifically in the form of a mild smoke that hangs out at the sides of each drink. At the same time, the initial caramel sweetness lingers on the tip of the tongue, bolstered by a mellow breadiness that stands apart from the charred malt. The combination of sweet bread notes, savory roast and smoke cling to the mouth and ensures that the flavors linger well after you’ve finished drinking. The beginning pine notes diminish soon after drinking, but the bitterness remains, flowing throughout each taste – side by side with the sweetness and creating a unique flavor. Don’t expect a brew of pure, unholy darkness – this beer seems to strive to reach more than just stoutheads. A bitter bite of hops, a sweet tide of bread malts, and the savory smoke of roasted grain creates a remarkably pleasant and refreshing take on a stout.
Paired up with a special Brewer’s Select menu featuring porter meatballs, bison burgers and turtle cheesecake, this stout will have many an opportunity to find itself in front of you. But take note, you’ll only be able to try this brew until the end of the month, or when the cask runs dry – whichever comes first.
Read about more beer from Columbus.
