Rockmill’s latest offering is Le Boucher – French for The Butcher (thanks high school French!) – a zesty farmhouse ale that was brewed in collaboration with Butcher and the Brewer out of Cleveland. Despite what the ominous and shady label might convey, there is nothing dark or mysterious about this brew (the dude on the bottle is merely a meat butcher, not a Jason Voorhees butcher…probably). And, in true craft fashion, there are a few twists on the standard style thrown in here and there that add some subtle zing, but still hold fast to that farmhouse vibe.
The aroma kicks things off with an air of cracker malts. Alongside, lemon juice and apple peel add some tart fruits that hold back on the sweetness but go deep in freshness. Notes of grass clippings and crisp hay complete the initial bouquet offering, while mild floral hints begin to work their way in from the sides. Spices arrive next, primarily a faint cloud of clove and pepper, as well as some resiny hop characteristics (pine, juniper, and even some tropical fruits). The Belgian style is evident from the zest, and the addition of a decent amount of hops creates a different take on the style that works quite well in the aroma.
Across the palate, this beer is fast. Beginning crisp, it effervesces from the mouth in a matter of seconds, leaving only a sizeable and prominent bitterness over the entire tongue. This may seem slightly strange for a farmhouse, to have such a lingering bitterness, but in a world where Andy from Parks and Recreation can tame a pack of damn velociraptors, and then use those raptors to hunt a hybrid T-Rex, I’m open to whatever the brew world has to offer (seriously, watch the new Jurassic World trailer). Additional sips reveal the standard lemon juice and apple peel tartness, with some autumn leaves at the end to round out the dry front edge. Only after a few drinks do the malts arrive – consisting of crackers and light bread crust. A touch of cloves and some banana esters make sure that wild Belgian vibe is accounted for, while a forward hop spice and florality builds up on the tongue as the drinks go by, until you can almost take the hop resin. Just before the flavors fade from the tongue, a hint of barnyard funk can be noticed, with damp and musty hay rising to the top – rock on, Brettanomyces! (Go ahead and Google that word. It’s wonderful beer chemistry).
Le Boucher is a tasty farmhouse. Tart and dry, with fruit and farm hitting all the right notes, the addition of a slightly higher-than-normal hop complexity adds even more freshness to the brew. I would suggest drinking this at slightly higher-than-normal temperatures (around 55℉) in order to bring out all of the standard farmhouse flavors and aroma, as well as working in the various hop notes. Wonderfully refreshing now that the temperatures are heading into flip-flop territory, Rockmill’s Le Boucher will quench even the mightiest of thirsts.
