This summer, World of Beer will tap three unique and limited beers from three different breweries across the country. This past Friday, I was present when Breckenridge’s Farmhouse (brewed with sea salt and grapefruit peel) started pouring. And, I was glad to be there. As you’ll see, the beer wasn’t what I was expecting at all, but it was still tasty and great for the season.
On the nose, Breckenridge’s farmhouse is clean and subdued. Notes of pine mingle with crackers and a hint of caramel to bring about an aroma more reminiscent of a pale ale, rather than the dry fruits and spice of a farmhouse. The Belgian-style notes are there (the most forward are autumn leaves and apple peel), but what other notes that may exist are kept hidden beneath the surface. As I let the beer warm up, the bouquet notes did begin to grow in strength, but not enough to introduce new aromas. I would guess that you’d have to enjoy this at room temperature to experience the full aromatic potential (which is slightly disappointing, since you’ll probably only find this on tap).
Flavor-wise, there is much more going on but, like the aroma, the identity of the beer is far from clear-cut. Gentle melon will arrive first, fresh and cooling with the slightest touch of sweetness. It is enhanced by a mild grapefruit zest that lingers at the sides. Pine and tropical fruit notes lend to the freshness and bitterness, but remain restrained enough to avoid going full into “pale” territory. Caramel malts and notes of grain create a light but present backbone that evens out the freshness. I was slightly disappointed to have to search for the farmhouse” notes (eventually, after it warms a bit, there are gentle flavors of leaves, hay, and apples), but I was hoping the farmhouse style would be more prominent. However,I was able to set such feelings aside as the end of the drink arrived, bringing a slight salty tang and a crisp, effervescent finish. It was at this point that I realized Breckenridge’s farmhouse was more “inspired by” the farmhouse style, rather than a true farmhouse. In fact, I would definitely call this more of a pale than any farmhouse, but it still works.
To purists, or those absolutely craving a farmhouse-style ale, this beer will be disappointing. For everyone else, you’ll enjoy it. The tropical fruits and refreshing melon are perfect for summer, and lend themselves to an enjoyable and drinkable brew. And, with the addition of sea salt and noticeable grapefruit rind, there’s just enough weirdness to satisfy all of us who enjoy those fringe beers. As a World of Beer exclusive, its duration and availability is limited, but if you’re interested in a tasty summer ale, go out and find a glass.
