Ah, winter. A season as beautiful as it is ugly. Full of magical majesty and terrible treachery. Snow angels and salt brine. And, of course, the armada of winter brews – arriving like clockwork with enough force to get the Heat Miser totally hammered. Like the winter season itself, you either love a winter beer, or you hate it and seclude yourself inside an insulated beer cave for the next three months filled with nothing but IPAs and happy thoughts of sunshine. It’s easy to see why such a divide exists. From its humble beginnings as a “stronger than normal” ale, the modern day winter brew is a category unto itself, with enough variations to extend the season into a year-round event. But, whether you love them or loathe them, there is something to say about a beer that captures the essence of the winter season. Columbus Brewing Company’s Winter Warmer does just that, skillfully combining a dash of this and a pinch of that to create brew that even the most die-hard Scrooge would approve of. So grab your overstuffed parkas and hipster scarves, and leave your pumpkin-spiced everything behind. Winter has arrived early, my friends, and we all look like we could use a little warming up.
Now, as with any beer, the aroma is just as important as the taste. Typically, I can get the gist of a beer from that initial aroma bloom. You know – the one that reaches out and caresses your face right after you pour it. CBC’s Winter Warmer is a bit of an aroma tease. A subdued base of malts peeks its head out of the glass, but it remains relatively hidden. There are also some fleeting hints of winter spices – nutmeg, cinnamon, and maybe a bit of ginger – but, like the malts, they seem to be shy. Actually, the biggest aroma presence is a moderately citrusy hop vibe. Nothing like an IPA, or even other pale ales, but that fresh edge of citrus peel is definitely there. It doesn’t smell like a typical winter brew. The usual suspects are there individually, but as a complete aroma profile, it’s super bright and sunny. Perhaps that’s on purpose – like it wants to warm up your mind, and your body. That’s quite thoughtful of you, Winter Warmer. High five.
If this isn’t sounding like your cup of winter ale tea, have no fear. The first taste brings about those familiar seasonal flavors. A moderate malt backbone shows up at the beginning and creates a mouth-filling richness, but in the next instant, it disappears under a variety of other flavors. Savory cinnamon shows up with some oomph – not like one of those Atomic Fireball jaw breaker candies, but more of a cinnamon cookie/cake/something your grandmother used to bake vibe. Nutmeg also decides to pay a visit, bringing just a smidgen of that fresh holiday spicing. On some tastes, a hint of gingerbread cookie can also be found, just kind of chilling out at the back. To round out the winter flavors is a slightly sweet combination of brown sugar and molasses, buried all the way at the bottom, but donating just enough dark sweetness to tie a bow around the holiday package. And, though it seems like there’s an entire holiday dessert bar within each taste, it’s more like the essence of each, rather than “Mom’s Famous Gingersnaps” getting all up in yo’ face.
But wait! Just like the seasonal onslaught of as-seen-on-TV commercials, there’s more! In addition to all of the traditional winter brew flavors, there’s also a hopped quality that works surprisingly well. Just like the aroma, the hops aren’t huge, but they do add that same edge of citrusy brightness, and leave a hint of lingering bitterness at the back of the tongue. It’s actually quite pleasant. The citrus works well with the spices, and remains moderated with every other flavor, like a glass of best friends. And that’s pretty much the definition of liquid good times.
Now, all of the flavors and aromas aside, there’s really only one true job that a winter beer should fulfill – warming you up. It could taste like it was brewed by Yukon Cornelius and a flock of wild winter elves, but if it didn’t bring the heat, it wouldn’t be a true Winter Warmer (for the record, I would totally drink a beer brewed by Yukon Cornelius. I bet it would be called Bumble Stout or Sled Dog Red). At first, you may not think CBC’s Winter Warmer achieves that goal. It’s a deceptively smooth drink, with not even a hint of alcoholic strength to be found. But, just like a snow storm that nary a single meteorologist predicted, the warmth shows up near the end, arriving as a relaxed glow that’ll thaw out even the frostiest of snowmen and snowladies. Once it arrives that warmth is there to stay, making its way through each drink undetected until the last moment, like a brewninja (someone start up the Brewninja BrewPub! I’ll design your logo for free) Needless to say, the beer brings it. Winter flavors, a mellow warmth, and good times.
Columbus Brewing Company’s Winter Warmer stands out from the crowd in its simplicity and down-to-earth flavors. You won’t find any huge spice notes or candied nuts – it’s not bottled fruitcake. It is a balanced brew of mild winter spices, mouth-filling flavor, and a dash of hoppy sunshine that delivers an awesomely drinkable beer that’ll keep you warm on even the coldest of nights. The flavors are nicely balanced, and are content to impart just a touch of their power – creating a beer that’s enjoyable for anyone, even those who may utter a bah humbug every now and then. And though there’s no shame in drinking by yourself, this beer lends itself to company. Whether it’s a family get together, or your significant other, grab a friend and share a Winter Warmer – turtlenecks optional.
