Beer from Here: Rockmill’s Saison Supér

Seasonal beers are in full force here in Central Ohio. From strong ales to spiced lagers to flavorful porters, many a brewery has the means to keep you warm as the days grow short and the temperatures fall. One such beer comes from our good friends down in Lancaster – Rockmill Brewery, the Brewgeniuses behind the superbly tasty Dubbel. Their answer to Mother Nature’s cold shoulder is the Saison Supér, bulking up their original saison like a bear stockpiling for winter hibernation. Unlike a bear, Rockmill is much more willing to share their supplies, and the best way to repay that generosity is, of course, to drink it! (Neither Paul nor Drink Up Columbus condones taking anything from a bear. But if you do, be sure to live Tweet. Maybe wear a GoPro camera).

Alright, so I’ll start things out by stating that this beer’s presentation is just lovely. From the hefty bottle, to the beautiful label to the cork and cage, it carries an aura of dignity and class that just feels special. Usually, presentation isn’t that big of a deal for me, but just from its outward appearance, this is a beer I would bring to a party in place of wine, and feel like an ultra-gentleman for doing so. Plus, uncorking a bottle of beer always makes me feel distinguished, as if I should be wearing a monocle whilst filling the air with a great number of harrumphs. Anyway, from the moment the cork is popped, the aromas begin to rise from the bottle and swirl up around the face as a cloud of spicy fruit. Once you pour it into your glass of choice, those aromas magnify in a massive way. Inhaling this elixir reveals tangy apples and lemon juice up front, front-loading a zesty freshness with a trailing edge of sweetness. Spicy yeast and mild, biscuity malts chill out underneath, creating a wonderful base of Belgian spice-drop spices, breads and a touch of citrus. Layering from the top are earthy notes of crisp autumn leaves and straw, bubbling and tingling the nose and pulling you deeper into each breath, as if inviting you to the best seasonal house party ever. At the far end of each breath, hints of pineapple juice and orange juice draw the bouquet to a close with an aromatic sigh of bright freshness.

Perhaps the best way to convey the flavors of this saison is this: Do you know how – in cartoons and movies, when something amazing and decadent happens to the character – a glow surrounds them and harps chime in, while some gentle clouds suddenly appear and perhaps a few birds start chirping? Drinking this is the beer equivalent of that glowing-harp feeling. Spicy yeast shows up first, carrying toasty bread malts and creating a tasty backbone of savory mellowness and superior freshness. Immediately following, tangy lemon and pineapple juice pours over crisp autumn apples and dried leaves, erupting against your tongue with a spicy, earthen tingle of epic magnitudes. Slight hints of sweet oranges and a big banana bloom slides in from the sides, adding even more fruity freshness as well as a touch of spice from the bananas. Drifting below the other flavors, an almost earthy sweetness mingles with each taste as a mellow extension of the fruits, creating a lightly sour vibe rather than a true sweet edge.

Each mouthful reveals additional layers of flavor that constantly flow over one another, creating a shifting complexity that prevents one taste from being exactly like the previous. One moment, you might taste tart apples and straw, and the next you’ll be enjoying spicy Belgian yeast with a touch of pineapple juice. In fact, it’s so complex and flavorful, it might be the only thing powerful enough to convince George R.R. Martin to stop killing off his characters (I’m just kidding – he’ll never stop). In addition to the flavors, a layer of alcoholic heat flows under the surface. There’s a slight tang of alcohol with each taste, but it’s masked by the flavor potency before you can spend too much time thinking about it. However, after about ten minutes you’ll feel that mild toastiness begin to wash over you, gradually revealing its 8.5% ABV with the gentleness of a knitted Christmas sweater. On the tongue, the mild sourness and the slight wave of bubbly carbonation keeps it fairly dry, but with enough clinging power to wrap around your tongue a few times before slowly fading away. Long enough to extend its deliciousness, but not so long as to leave an unpleasant taste in your mouth.

I could continue talking about this beer for hours, but that would limit your time to go out and drink it. So, go out and drink it! If you weren’t able to attend the Saison Supér release party, now’s your chance to do your civic beer duty and support those crafty Rockmill chemists. If you’re a fan of saisons, Belgian brews, huge flavor, complexity, or just damn-tasty beer, this one is for you. Loaded with layers of flavor and a stealthy wave of warmth, Rockmill’s Saison Supér is a pure gem of a beer. And, with Christmas right around the corner, uncorking a bottle or two of this will make you the Yuletide champ of any holiday party.

Read reviews of other local brews.