I typically start out my beer reviews with a short introduction – something beer or brewery related to set the stage. This time, I’ve got nothing.
How could I, when the label of today’s beer features what looks to be a wild 50’s housewife and/or flight attendant doing some bump and grind with an ox who appears to be more than a little confused.
It’s a bold label that almost dares you to ask just what the hell is going on here. On the other hand, perhaps the label is a perfect description of Actual Brewing and their Orthodox Winter IPA. Maybe – besides becoming my favorite beer label – it also tells us that like Ron Swanson, Actual Brewing carries a sheet of paper that says “I do what I want.” Luckily, tasty beer is what they want, which works out great for us.
Once I managed to peel my enraptured eyes from that bemused ox and future raver gal, it was time to begin this latest beer journey. Starting things off was the aroma – familiar yet different from other IPAs. The hops were definitely there, showing up as blooms of pine, fresh vegetation, and even a touch of grass clippings. But instead of that huge hop explosion, this beer turns down a different path. Mild hints of cracker-like malts arrive with a hint of roasted warmth that pushes back against the bitter hop edge. The malts stay below the hops throughout the entire aroma, but they ensure the profile is much more balanced than other IPAs. At the back, hints of sticky brown sugar and caramel finish the bouquet with an edge of sweetness typically found within more malt-forward beers. It’s quite nice, and creates an air of warmth and comfort that is just what’s needed as these sub-Arctic temperatures begin to roll in.
On the tongue, the initial intensity of the flavors is a bit staggering. Equally huge backbones of dry, cracker-malt roastiness and pungent bitter hoppiness collide on the tip of your tongue, leaving rich and mouth-filling complexity in their wake. The malts start out quite toasty, with flavors of bread crust and a touch of sesame seed arriving up front, followed by a slightly sweet wave of brown sugar and caramel. The sweetness is subtle and stays well below the other flavors, but it’s a nice way to finish each taste. On the hop side, the bitterness and IPA character is provided by a funky, damp pine needle quality. It adds that well-known hop bloom, while creating a slightly heavy, mildly spicy pungency that rolls across the tongue with a juciness usually absent where hops are king.
This double-sided taste flows strong up front before ending with a bubbling tingle at the back. The flavors stick to every inch of the mouth, shifting from crackery malts to funky hops every other second. Though it claims a 6.9% ABV, after a slow drinking session, a comfortable warmth will begin to wash over you like a liquid sweater – combating the cold that is most likely the result of those giant space vortexes from The Day After Tomorrow. It captures the best aspects from both the hops and the malts – fresh bitterness and bright vibrancy, as well as comfortable warmth and quaint, memorable breadiness. And, all of this flavor is contained under the constant stare of that epic party ox.
Actual Brewing’s Orthodox Winter IPA is a Two-Face of beers. On one side, you’ve got Harvey Dent – comfort, good times, malts, bread crust and a duty to uphold justice in Gotham City. On the other side, Two-Face brings about in-your-face freshness courtesy of the pungent hops – turning away from the framework of IPAs for an unpredictable path of alternating brightness and funky darkness (I’m not saying this beer is a Batman villain. The ox on the front is just too damned surprised to hide any kind of evil). Unlike Two-Face, both sides of this beer work like Yin and Yang after achieving full and omnipresent one-ness with the universe. In other words, super-balanced tastiness. The hops are the major flavor, while the malts follow just behind, working with one another in a lovely harmony while allowing each of their strengths to shine through and grace your tongue with wonderful deliciousness. It’s a perfect winter beer that sticks to no-frills flavor, delivering on an awesome level.
Do yourself a favor, and go check this beer out. Keep in mind that there are only 1,000 bottles circulating, and when they’re gone this beer is gone till next winter, so check it out soon. A word of warning, though – I think the eyes of the Label Ox have some kind of hypnotic property. Once you pick up the bottle, your soul belongs to… All glory to the Hypno-Ox!
