Sometimes, there’s more to a name than what you might expect. For example, to the uninitiated, a beer labeled as “Extra Special/Strong Bitter” might be a bit imposing. It’s not just bitter, nor is it even extra bitter. No, it’s extra special bitter, which must be an entirely different echelon of bitterness. If you roll up in front of an ESB, you’d best be ready to strap in order to survive the upcoming onslaught of tongue melting bitterness, right? Actually…no, not at all. Despite the name, ESB’s are – compared to IPAs – quite low on the bitterness. In truth, ESBs generally focus on tasty balance between malts and hops, which is exactly what Buckeye Lake’s ESB serves up. It’s ok, you can take off your hop pants now.
Starting with the pour, the aroma blooms as a bouquet of sweet malts – consisting of mostly caramel notes with a backbone of brown bread. Faint vibes of cherries and apple peels swirl in from the sides, mingling with the malt notes but staying mostly subdued. The malt profile is front and center in this aroma. Near the end, a breeze of bitterness sweeps in for a few moments, mildly earthy and unlike any “hop-heavy” aroma. You’ll find no traces of pine or tropical fruit – it’s more of an essence. It’s just bitter. But, like the aroma as a whole, it doesn’t stay around for too long, which also helps to keep any overly distinguishing characteristics hidden. Luckily, beer is best experienced in the mouth.
The malts continue on the tongue, arriving as rich brown bread, drizzled with a caramel sweetness that remains under control without becoming too sweet. The mild, earthy bitterness arrives once more, setting up at the sides of the tongue and pushing inward slightly. Again, there are no definitive hop flavors or characteristics, just a light floralness that creeps across your tongue and settles in beneath the malts. As the drink continues, hints of almonds and cherries mingle with the bread notes, followed by faint instances of apple peel. The bread characteristics slowly fades to a more cracker-like malt, where notes of tea arrive as the crackers mingle with the bitter earthiness. Each taste begins fairly smooth, but finishes with a clean crispness that pushes quite a bit of flavor from the tongue. Despite it’s malt-forwardness, it remains relatively light and enjoyable in any situation.
Many who try Buckeye Lake’s ESB won’t find it that bitter at all. And that’s ok. In fact, that’s what an ESB should be – malty and nutty with hints of roast, all kept clean by a gentle bittering at the back. And this brew fits the bill perfectly. The hints of fruit compliment the malts like besties, and leads to a wonderfully drinkable beer that really has no wrong time to enjoy. Afternoon, late evening, summer, winter, and especially when reenacting your favorite Lord of the Rings scene with your friends (It comes in pints?!) If you’re looking for something Extra Special Tasty to enjoy this week, pick up a bottle or 3 of Buckeye Lake’s ESB.
One Comment on "Beer from Here: Buckeye Lake ESB"
Just had the sampler today, and the ESB was my favorite of the bunch. They all seemed very good in their own way, though, not a bad pour to be had.