A new year is upon us. A clean slate, a blank canvas, an empty book – however you view it, fresh and unknown is what it’s all about during these first days of 2014. And what better way to ring in this new year than by cracking open a bottle from one of Columbus’ newest craft breweries – Sideswipe Brewing. As their lovingly hand-filled bottles have just hit shelves around the city, allow me to be one of the first to share the brand new tastiness that is waiting for you behind the Sideswipe label.
First up is the Fisticuffs – a rich, golden IPA that immediately presents itself the moment it leaves the bottle. Its aroma is the tried and true hop blast, led by a front edge of pine bitterness. Following immediately, a deeper hop quality brings about damp, earthy notes of bitter herbs and a touch of what I can best describe as funk. Not George Clinton funk – instead its a heavy, pungent thickness against the nose, like someone stuffed a bunch of wet pine needles into a sock, buried it under a rock for a month, and then slapped you with it. It’s not off-putting, but it does have a sharper, almost juicier hop aroma that is easily distinguishable from the initial piney freshness. The tail end of each breath brings notes of grapefruit and pineapples, contributing more bitterness with a touch of bright sweetness as well, lingering under the pine. The bouquet ends with a bloom of bright and floral spiciness, courtesy of the hops. This spice is similar to what you’d find in a pilsner, but without the malt presence to counter it. As a whole, the multiple hop aromas ensure this beer achieves that super IPA freshness that one should expect.
As for the flavors, everything from the aroma shows up on the tongue as well. Bright pine arrives first, bringing a keening bitterness that hugs the mouth. Notes of pine tree, juniper and even a bit of black pepper tingle across the tongue. The same funkiness shows up next, with flavors of slightly fermenting vegetable peels, freshly cut carrots, and a touch of damp straw. I know, it’s a crazy description that doesn’t sound all that appealing. But trust me, it’s quite wonderful. The funk properties stay well within their IPA limits, so you don’t need to worry about any unpleasant flavor surprises – it maintains a potent IPA taste through and through.
At the back of each taste, hints of fruity sweetness emerge, carried on wings of pineapple, passion fruit and grapefruit. Their sweet and slightly juicy characteristics begin and remain subdued, but they’re prominent enough to provide a nice counter to the bitterness. The sweet notes don’t stick around for too long – evaporating away under the hop strength soon after arriving. But it’s more than enough time for yet another layer of flavor and complexity to wash over your tongue. Bringing the beer to a close, each taste ends with a lingering, earthy darkness – a mild herbal spiciness that ensures the flavors stay on the tongue as long as possible. Momentary instances of sesame seeds mingle with hints of juniper to create a slightly nutty, slightly bitter finish, as well as ending each taste with a seal of freshness.
This new brewery isn’t a state of the art craft beer laboratory; it’s a big garage, with a few tanks, some tubing and a mighty powerful love of beer. Short of brewing up a batch of beer on your own stove, Sideswipe’s set up is as pure to the heart of craft beer as can be. Just a couple of guys, making delicious beer and knocking it out of the park. Though they may be new, and small, and off the beaten path, the beer that Sideswipe is turning out is as tasty and top-notch as anything else out there.
Start out this new year with some new beer. All three of their beers are available all over the city, but act fast – once word of the deliciousness spreads, they may be hard to find.
Check back soon for reviews of Sideswipe’s Elegant Hoodlum Smoke Stout and Coop Looter Saision, and more Columbus-brewed beers.
