Sideswipe’s second offering takes us on a power-sliding change in direction as we trade the eye opening freshness of the IPA for rich, smooth roastiness. It’s Elegant Hoodlum Smoked Stout, a brew that pours as thick and dark as motor oil, while sporting a kick-ass mob boss label. Actually, all three of Sideswipe’s labels are awesome – The Artful Pint did a great article on them – but Elegant Hoodlum’s label has a touch of noir elegance that earns this beer a 10/10 in sophistication even before the first drink.
The good times continue from there as the aroma billows up in a thick cloud of mellow wood fire smoke and roasting malts that bursts against your nose. A strong pillar of bold coffee supports the smoky roastedness and adds another layer of stoutish darkness. The back of each breath reveals faint traces of dark chocolate, supplying a touch of bitterness alongside a dusting of earthy sweetness that swirls under the surface. The coffee and malt roastiness remains bold throughout each breath, but the overall profile stays quite mellow and contained, brushing against the nose like a ribbon of black, vaporous silk.
The first taste of this stout is quite complex, with what seems to be multiple stout styles showing up at once. The roasted malts arrive first, forming a dark and rich backbone from which the smoky notes arise. Following that, a layer of mellow sweetness washes over the tongue. It has a bit of a milk stout quality as it brings a touch of sticky sweetness that flows with an almost syrupy thickness. It isn’t a lasting vibe, as the sweet notes slowly fade away until they become a faint linger at the back of the mouth. From under the malts, layers of bold coffee rise up and settle on top of each taste. They don’t overpower the other flavors, instead choosing to work side by side with the malts rather than forcing their way onto the tongue. As each taste continues, notes of oatmeal slide in from the sides – bringing a pinch of dry, toasty cereal worthy of a Quaker can. At the back, hints of bittersweet dark chocolate settle across the tongue, mingling with the earlier sweetness while adding a touch of earthy bitterness as well.
It’s incredibly smooth and cohesive, flowing over the tongue like a honey-coated tidal wave. The dark strength is front and center, but the mild sweetness that runs throughout each taste – as well as just how flawlessly each layer of flavor works with one another – creates a stout that is the beer equivalent of one of those massive teddy bears you win at the fair – huge and bulky, yet soft and comforting. It’s basically a hug for your tongue. Once again, this level of craftitude from a brand new brewery is, in a word, epic. Sideswipe’s Elegant Hoodlum manages to combine complexity, strength, silky smoothness and top notch flavor into a mouth-filling brew that’ll knock your socks – and possibly your pants – clean off (Sideswipe Brewery is not responsible for any pants-related mishaps). One final note for this beer – chill it for a half hour before drinking. That way, you’ll be able to experience the changing layers of flavor and aroma as it warms up. Remember, it’s an Elegant Hoodlum – drink slow and stay classy.
Be sure to check back soon for the review of Sideswipe’s third brew – Coop Looter Saison. In the meantime, read reviews of other beers from here.
